Posted by Gary Dodge on June 19, 2003 at 01:17:11:
In Reply to: Lead Came posted by Malinda Senger on June 18, 2003 at 15:19:07:
The size of the solder joint is determined by the amount of solder you use and the area that you flux. You needn't mask anything off. (If you try to the soldering heat will leave gummy glue from the tape all over the cames.)
Personally I prefer 50/50 solder for came joints as it fills in any voids more easily than 60/40. You need to test your iron on a piece of came scrap first to make sure that you are not starting out too hot. If your iron is too hot your cames will melt away instantly when the iron contacts them. The correct setting will allow the iron to readily melt solder but still be able to lay on a came for a count of about 5 seconds without the came melting.
Many folks flux the joint then lay the end of their solder on the joint. Place the iron firmly on top of the solder until it melts allowing the flat side of your iron to come down onto the came. Let the iron lay on the came for about three seconds, then lift it straight up.
GaryD
: I have just recently taken a class in stained glass. the first project used copper foil; the 2nd project uses lead came. I had to miss the class on soldering the lead came. I am anxious to finish the project and believe that I can do it before I return to the last class.
: When you solder a lead came project, you only solder the joints, correct. My glass pieces fit perfectly. I have placed the glass in the lead came. The project's frame is zinc. Each side is secured by rulers (doubled) about 12" long.
: I am ready to solder. Should I keep the came localized by placing strips of masking tape on each side of the joint so that the solder won't get too spread out? Do you have any tips on soldering the joints? P.S. I am using a 60/40 solder.