Posted by Angel on July 15, 2002 at 07:53:16:
In Reply to: Re: soldering irons posted by Gary Dodge on July 15, 2002 at 01:28:08:
You're no fun, Gary. If we keep agreeing like this people are going to start thinking we're in collusion. How's anybody going to learn if they don't get a few opposing opinions? Oh well, in this case it's justified. Hakko RULES! Of course, even Hakko has an internally controlled Iron...the 918. I "Hobby-user" evaluated it for the Hakko Rep and it has everything I LOVE...padded handle, light as an Ungar BUT, it only idles at 800 degrees and has that damn internal control. Unlike the Weller 100 it CAN be used on a controller, but it didn't work best like that. I'd buy one in a second if they took out the internal control and raised the idle to 1000 degrees. Oh well, I can dream.
Gary, I've been using Sal Ammoniac solution to clean really dirty Tips for YEARS...long before I ever saw your website. It's a whole lot better than the abrasive solid Sal blocks and no noxious fumes...but, that business of plunging a fully heated tip into cold solution is pretty tough on it. If you wipe a tip on a wet shop towel every time you pause during soldering, a hobbyist MIGHT need the Sal solution a few times a year. Sparingly is best use for that stuff. I think the last time I needed it was when I went off and left the poor Hakko idling at 85% power for hours....ouch! Even then it wasn't a big deal....one dip and a few swipes and a little re-tinning did the trick.
: Boy Angel,
: You've just picked my favorite (small) iron and temperature control!!! (For large work I prefer the Hakko 200 watt iron.)
: The Hakko has a ton of great features, including the tip mounting system that keeps the mounting screw threads relatively cool so they never oxidise and seize up and the heavy duty three wire cord with the spring wrap where it comes out of the handle so it doesn't short out or break the wires, and the ceramic heater is top notch, (and the heater going up into the tip for quick response is brilliant).
: For quick tip cleanups I like to use sal-ammoniac water. You can read about it in our glassworkers tips.
: GaryD
:
: : Jo, I'm famous (or infamous) for not liking internally controlled Irons like the Weller 100. To change Weller's temp you need to change the tip since that's where the control is. I MUCH prefer the Hakko 456-Pro Iron with a Glastar temp controller (don't get the Mini-phaser...it's Inland). It's the finest Iron for hobbyists and many of the pros like it as well.
: : Don't be fooled by the 60 watt size. The Hakko has a ceramic heating element that idles at 1100 degrees and holds heat without ever dropping it. With the controller you can have any temp you want, from good and HOT (around 80 to 90 %) to cooler temps for things like edge beading and lead soldering or deco-soldering. Takes the Hakko only a few swipes on a wet shop towel to drop temp. and it recovers almost instantly when you turn it up. I have 7 soldering Irons and all the others except my little Ungar, languish in storage since I got Hakko...and that includes the Weller 100. (even had an inland way back when I was new...threw it away).
: : I use shop towels for swiping the Iron tip during soldering because the stupid sponges just pick up dirt and deposit it back on your iron. You can fold a wet paper shop towel and keep turning to a new clean surface. It's cheaper and cleaner than sponges.
: : The Morton system is like the old story of the Emperor's New clothes. Everybody gets it. Nobody ever really learns to use all of it, but they're afraid to say so because everybody else keeps saying how incredible it is. I have every piece they make. You'll do well to get the large cutting surface and the breaking system (little red button and bar) but hold off on the "portable system" until you see it demonstrated and try it out. I finally gave up on cutting geometrics with Morton and bought an Emerald Rainbow Scoreboard. I was cutting geos in 1 hr that I still couldn't do with Morton after trying for years. MUCH too complicated and convoluted a system unless you use all of it every day. The instructions read like they're written in Japanese (but no, it's really English). I bought the badly outdated video AND got a combo TV/VCR for the glass rom just so I could watch it while I practiced. Not much help. Scoreboard is the best geometric cutting system out there...mostly common sense. I am NOT reluctant to say that the Emperor is NOT wearing any clothes.
: : Cutting glass is done by a lot of methods. I've tried lightbox but find it wastes glass and is very inaccurate when it comes to fitting. I prefer paper (actually, heavy cardstock printed from the computer) templates glued on the glass. Most precise method and easiest for beginners to learn. I was taught by artists who also perfered it. Don't let anybody try to push you into lightbox cutting unless you LIKE that method and it works for you. There's no ONE right way.
: : It would be nice if other people came along and gave their opinions here. Gets kind of monotonous when it's just Gary and me....even when we don't agree and "get into" it sometimes. Sad to day, we're beginning to agree more times than not. I know Gary would like to see a bit more interaction by the users.
: : ---------------------------------------
: : : Thank you Gary and Angel reference the response you both gave on the grinder. Now, here's another question, what is a good soldering iron? I have a 100 Watt iron, but when I bought this one, I was told that I really didn't need the temperture control, regulator, whatever it's called to go along with it. Right now I would just love to do a project and actually have it come out right!! So, I need more expert advice from you folks and I truly thank you all!! Also, is this morton cutting system worth purchasing and I was also told to invest in a light table and place my pattern on top of that and then place whatever glass I'm going to use over the pattern and cut from there. I'm being told that the light table shines enought light from underneath that this is the best way to cut. In a sense I see their point, but what if the glass I need to cut is dark?? See all the "pointers" I'm getting!!