Posted by stella1952 on December 03, 2002 at 16:12:56:
In Reply to: worktable posted by sandy on December 02, 2002 at 14:53:24:
: Does anyone know where I can get ideas, plans to a suitable worktable that I want to have built? I need one that I can work at,also store glass, tools, etc.
For ideas, you can always take a trip to your local stained glass studio to check out their setups. I built one several years ago, so, trust me, it ain't rocket science! If you can figure out how to lay out a stained glass panel or box, you can design your own table! First thing I learned is to measure the doorway into the room where the table will live. I almost messed up on that one - the table cleared (after removing the doorstop molding, door & hinges) by 1/8". Took a couple of weeks to regrow the skin on my knuckles.
Since glass is usually worked while standing, your table should be at least waist high (for you!). I am a very tall person, and most "normal" measurements give me a pain (literally!). Make the top as large as you can within your space limitations. I've found that there is never enough horizontal space, so if I could have made a table that was 4' x 8', I'd have done so. Keep in mind when planning the size of your tabletop that stained glass worktables should be accessable on at least 3 sides. Locate one short side against a wall near an electric outlet. I store a lot of things in those wonderful plastic boxes, so I measured the ones I use, added a couple of inches, and located a shelf under the table at the appropriate height. I used 3/4" B/C plywood (use plywood - particle board sucks) for the top and shelf of my table, a 2x4 and 2x6 nailed together for legs, and 2x4s for the supports. First make the legs the height mentioned above. Make 2 2x4 rectangles the size of your top (mine is 38" wide x 60" long). Nail the legs to the inside corners of the rectangle. Flip it over and nail the top on. Decide where you want your shelf, and nail, screw or bolt the other rectangle to the legs at the appropriate height. Nail 2 or 3 cross braces to the shelf supports. Nail the shelf into place. Voila! The shelf under my table goes 2/3 across the length, then I left a space for a garbage can, and vertical storage of rolled paper (patterns, etc.), then a short shelf continuing to the end. The big shelf will store sheets of glass 24"x36". I use racks from an old dishwasher (the bottom ones are best 'casue they have wheels) to store smaller pieces of glass under the table. I nailed a cross brace and thin piece of masonite to the short end of the big shelf so I could securely prop large pieces of glass against that end. I used an old piece of carpet under the large glass pieces so they wouldn't slip 'n' chip. Find a couple of tall bar stools at a flea market or garage sale (I got mine from a barroom - owner was too lazy to fix the torn seats, etc. so I got them for free) and you're ready to roll. I made a support shelf for my magnifier worklight, which also has 4 extra plugins on its base. I plug my soldering iron, etc. in there. If you don't have a worklight that has to be mounted on the table, you might want to get a heavy duty plug strip to locate at the "wall" end of the table so you don't have to crawl around under the table trying to find a wall receptacle. I did not finish the wood on my table, other than sanding. I sand the top lightly when it gets scratched or gouged. Of course, you could paint, stain or seal the wood, but I never bothered. The table is sturdy enough for me to stand on (even 285 pound son can stand on it without problems). The only thing I would do differently would be to put heavy duty locking castors (wheels) on the bottom of the legs as this is one HEAVY mother to have to move!
Good luck.